I got more questions

[u/Parking-Permit9208]

I hope y’all don’t get sick of me.

Got remeasured and sure enough, draw length he got was 23” for me. From what I have read here and other places, I would ± about 2.5 lbs per inch. You guys typically suggest that someone who has not a lot of experience start between 20-25lbs. If I were to go for a recurve for 40lbs at 28”, that would have me at 27.5, which is just a smidge above. Would this be fine? I’m 5’3” male and 190lbs (working on it being lower, trust me I’m upset about it)

I love the look of recurves and just the simplicity behind it. Plus since I want my wife to shoot along side me in this hobby, and we are nerds who love renfairs.

I am wondering what pros and cons of going for proprietary limbs over ILF would be. I have been looking at the mandarin duck black hunter for years, but it seems like people are also looking at bows from amazon that just go by black hunter. Would it be better to go for the name brand in this case?

If I were to also want to go for compounds, would it be better to have it set at the initial draw weight be in the 25lb range or aim for the let off to be at the 25lb range?

[u/GalileoPotato]

That wouldn't be fine. Go lower. 27# doesn't sound like a lot, but it is for the set of muscles, tendons, and ligaments involved for archery in the order that they activate, especially if you're new to it or have not trained for it.

Besides, it's 27# on paper.. you haven't actually measured the poundage of the bow at your draw length. You don't want to be surprised when it turns out to be more or less. Then, you'll risk being discouraged to continue because it will be too heavy.

Other people can chime in better than me for the other parts of your question. Good luck 👍

[u/XavvenFayne]

I'd go lighter, like 30#. I've seen coaches mess up the measurement by taking the DLPP instead of AMO draw length. I also see collapsed form from beginners, and when it's corrected they easily draw an inch or two more just by anchoring properly, aligning their shoulders, and getting their drawside elbow inline with the string. If you're really new to archery, expect your draw length to increase.

Regarding proprietary limbs, if we're talking a bolt-on like the Mandarin Duck or Galaxy Sage for example, then the only reason you'd get them is if you are on a tight budget and cannot afford an ILF bow right now. If you really prefer the look and feel of wood and you do have it in your budget, then look for a wooden ILF riser, as they do exist, they just aren't as common as metal risers.

ILF is a bit more expensive but it has the most riser options, a great used market, and importantly, limb adjustment capability that you will appreciate if/when you get to an intermediate skill level.

If you go with a compound, you can get away with a 30#-40# draw weight to start and have some nice letoff to like 15# or so.

[u/SorryBed]

Depends on your fitness.

My bow ended up a bit over 27# ATF with tillers at minimum and after 2 days of shooting I already wound them halfway, then shot over 200 arrows the next day and improved massively because I wasn't carrying so much weight in my bow arm.

I wish I'd gone just 2-4# heavier, but it just means I get to buy new limbs in 3 months instead of 6. 😜

The whole "start light" thing exists for a reason, but some folks are built different.

[u/Branthroc]

As an example. My DL is around 23inches. I've been shooting for 6 years. I have 40 lb limbs. My On The Finger DW is 34lbs.

I assure you that 40lb limbs are too much.

Go to a shop and try some, then remember that you won't just be pulling back once, you'll be doing it 50 times at least. If your a target shooter you'll be aiming for around 100. Then remember you want to achieve "perfect" form. Its insanely easier to shift your body and muscles around when they arent straining themselves.

But ultimately it is your call this is just my experience and 0.02